8.25.26
Wardrobe Research Methods: Referencing Print to Find the Past / Why Finding Analog Inspiration Will Always Work
by Emily Morabito Lacey
Marella Angelli, Italian heiress, Conde Nast contributor, and a favorite of Truman Capote's Swans.
Since y'all seem to have lost the plot on "chic", I'm brainstorming antonyms…
When "chic" feels done-to-death we have a problem. Over curation and the recycling of moodboard imagery have crossed wires so frequently and erratically, we experience cultural vertigo. We can't see up from down, trend from blip, classic from tired.
I cringed through my teeth last year as I watched the Ryan Murphy industrial complex ring the coveted image of Carolyn Bessette Kennedy and JFK Jr. through the media meat grinder. I held my tongue as every fashion girl in my orbit took to the internet to defend why her own unique parasocial relationship to one of fashion's last true "it-girls" was more real and profound than that of her compatriots. I was beyond over being force fed the same paparazzi images.
As many can surely relate, I am eternally at war with my relationship to the internet and the grip it has on both my sense of Self and my personal style. August marks three months without instagram (more on this here if you're curious) and I'm wearing the badge like a sobriety token. I feel at once freed, a restored ability to focus, a sense of assertion over my time, but uncomfortably disconnected. This sense of disconnection is tempting to give into altogether, to withdraw and become a 21st century internet recluse. I no longer feel the impulse to buy things I don't need but am fed over and over again online. My daily dressing habits require more creativity as I do not find myself saving outfits to reinterpret.
So when feeling uninspired the other day, I turned to the gorgeous collection of coffee table books we curated at Cosimo. I sat on the couch and flipped through pages for hours. I was struck by how deeply nostalgic and stirring the images of repeat moodboard offenders (Jane Birkin, Slim Aarons, Kate Moss, and yes, CBK) felt in print. I decided to pull imagery from the texts and implement them as a sort of test kitchen recipe: I'd use ingredients we had available in the store to reinterpret my selections, and analyze what about them felt so classic and trend-defying.
First Selection: Carolyn Bessette Kennedy: a Life in Fashion by Sunita Kumar Nair, Abrams
My first selection was a book on Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, conveniently published in 2023 long before her style was analyzed to death and singlehandedly resurrected headbands.
it was the quote that got me....
I chose this first look to revisit because it is seemingly simple, but seemed like a good option for the hot, late summer weather.
not pictured below, red polish felt right here
Immediately upon putting this look together I felt great: easy, classic, but still modern thanks to a few unexpected details. The dress is from KkCo and is a perfect updated take on an LBD, it's cut in 100% silk chiffon so it breathes. The bias cut is flattering but the seam lines and asymmetrical hem skirt any allegations of boring. The Margot sunnies from DMY studios have been my go-to this summer, they're classically 90's and bring a touch of nostalgia to an otherwise contemporary silhouette. The jewelry: Odissea Helena Choker, Odissea Booba ring, and DMY studios Anna Hoops. The finishing touches, Le Bon Shoppe headband and an Edie Parker skivvies clutch for a dose of humor.
It may read as such initially, but this is the most complicated of the looks referenced in this exercise. It reads as minimal because there is harmony in the balance of accessories, none too large or gaudy, all small enough in scale to let the simplicity of the little black dress shine. This is the enduring power of Carolyn Bessette Kennedy that is so difficult to capture.
Pictured here: Lake Jane LS tee coming soon, plus an alternative option for sunnies that still fits the bill
Following this revelation, I felt called to continue down the ever tempting path of 90's minimalism and selected one of a few beige/khaki moments pictured in the book. I've always been afraid of khaki, it feels too waspy, too middle school uniform for my wardrobe. These jeans from Common Market are from the Men's section at Cosimo so I was shocked by how well they fit! Straight through the waist/hip line with the slightest flair at the hem. Paired with a boat neck tee (no need for a necklace here, the collarbones should be the main course), a leather Alohas flip flop, an Odissea Helena bracelet. I kept the same shades/headband combo from before as it did just feel so Carolyn.
Another look both comfortable and unfussy, plus repeatable in a thousand iterations. A great alternative to lean into individuality here could be a vintage band tee tucked in with a belt… if so remove the headband ;)
Yves Saint Laurent: a Moroccan Passion by Pierre Bergé
In a flow state, I wanted to test this exercise on a reference more open to interpretation, as Carolyn's tenants of style are lasting and while not without effort, replicable within most existing wardrobes. Yves Saint Laurent: A Moroccan Passion, a diaristic collection of notes and photos in the handwriting of Yves' partner in life and business, is one of my favorite volumes in the shop.
Images of Yves, gorgeous in his Kaftans
I had to google Marella Agnelli and was NOT disappointed… Italian heiress and Condé Nast contributor, Marella was a favorite of Truman Capote's Swans. Her inventive pairing of sporty shades and lavender linen stopped me in my tracks.
Pulling from Yves' relaxed Kaftan moments and Marella Agnelli's prescient sport shade styling, I came up with this combination…
The Bond Girl golden bikini could be worn under or in lieu of the Kaftan. I also gave you a mini moroccan basket option and an Edie Parker lighter case that screams leisurely, lounging hash cigarette ;)
While on first impression much louder than our previous references to Carolyn, this look used the most simple combination of ingredients that in concert read dramatic and glamorous. The linen Kaftan from Sara Cristina is embellished with a freshwater baroque pearl at the base of its deep V, it's as stunning as it is well made. The sunnies, also from DMY studios, reference Marella's attitude in the photo above: is she hung over, going sport fishing later, or simply borrowing eye protection from a gentleman friend? The basket is hand woven, adorned with matte black sequins, and imported from Morocco. Swap my Ithaca ring for a milano in blue topaz. I hope Yves would have approved.
Please, come spend some time on the couch this week and flip through our library! We would love to help ignite the spark of nostalgia, play, and imagination in your wardrobe. I want to see your take on Jane, or Agnes ;)
xoxo,
Cosimo